MGB needs a new engine (Page 2 of 3)

Houston...

I got a nearly complete 289, should just need bearings and thrown together.  Then a cheap C4 someone has.  This SCREAMS awesome idea!

If I am not mistaken a 302 with aluminum heads weighs if not right at or under the weight of the heavy 1800 that was in there. If you don't mind doing a little cutting on some sheetmetal, the 302 will slide down in there low enough and far back enough to get a great weight distribution. There are tons of info on the MGB forums about the actual weight of the engines. Cheers

Its a Toyota Corolla GTS 5 speed transmission with short shift kit turned backwards like in an Shelby Cobra.

Rather than adding power, wouldn't you be better off improving that tippy-ass suspension? The Frogmasters' MGB-GT seems to handle pretty well.

Troy nailed it. buy a car with RWD & minimal electronics. swap it all. A truck would be great. essentially drop the MG body on a nissan hardbody 2wd chassis. that would rule!

for reliability I really like the KA24DE or the Ford 2.3L I4 ideas.

Other possibilities are 2.8L GM V6 from late 80s Camaros(they're not likable anyways but common so should be cheap)

if you can get a wrecked but running(not moving) early 90s CVPI then 4.6L V8 would make that MGB a BEAST (250hp/290tq)

or if you wanted something more interesting, a porsche 944 engine could be fun, maybe Wankel 12a from a 79-84 RX7?

There's always the M-B M103 engine. L6 w/ 180hp. Shouldn't be hard to get from a merc, although generally by the time they hit the pull-n-pay channels the transmissions attached to them have eaten themselves.

So after all the advice we went with a 3.4L chevy V6.
why ? because in the best Lemons tradition

1) It was damm cheap, Motor and transmission 230$. Owner says all it needs is a new fuel pump!!! ???

2) The MGB experience forum says the swap is so simple a caveman could do it in a day.

We've been at it 3 days and all we have managed to do is hit the body work with our clubs ( 4lb hammer) to make a little more space.

Bye bye 34 hp hello 140 hp

regards
Paul

L16/L18/L20B has the same bolt pattern as the L24, L26, and l28 engines. The throughout bearing carrier matches the transmission, bearing matches the clutch (get a roadster clutch -stronger). so if you have the 280 transmission its a more simple bolt together (and less cost). An L16 should get you about 95hp stock, L18-100, L20b maybe 105-110. Check Craigslist for people dumping an L16 (in favor of a SR20). The 4 cylinder engines are more reliable than the 6 cylinder versions, and can rev higher. Race L16s (2 hour run time) rev to 10-12K. With porting work, a killer cam shaft, high compression and good carbs, you should be able to get 200 hp from a L20b, but all that is big$$$. you can reuse your SU carbs on the L16-18-20B engine, but you'll need a different manifold.

SR20 has more Hp to start with but I doubt you'll find one, with ECU and all the parts for less than $500-1500. You need the rear wheel version, not the FWD version. They are all ending up in 510s.

KA24, you can find in the JY out of 90's Nissan pickups so it might be possible to get engine and trans and ECU/harness for $400. Good strong Bottom end and a descent head. A turbo-ed one in a 510 made ~4-500 hp at redline, but who knows how long that would last. 200-250 hp is possible with cams and throttle body Fuel Injection and a good after market computer.

Because the only weak point with Union Jack Racing is the lack of horsepower, right?

Geeze you guys are predictable....come on whats better than a big block GERMAN V8....all 540lbs of it......but don't worry that 540lbs beast throws down an impressive 220hp!! 

Personally I think an MG with a Shaguar V12 would be TOO COOL....at least it would still be British....imagine a 650+lb V12 stuffed into that thing....

You have my undivided attention.....