My own 2004 Toyota Matrix (Page 1 of 2)

A viking funeral in a Lemons race is a suitable end for any daily driver. Asking any true Lemons if this is a bad idea will get the same answer. If that came through my line at BS, I would not give any penalty laps. It screams C0 to me.

C0 => Class C, 0 Laps - That is the notation judges use on your tech sheet to denote class and number of penalty laps.

Matrix is basically a post-2000 Corolla, which is a surprisingly capable Lemons car. I'd probably dump it into Class B as far as competition goes, especially if it's an XR with a stick. If it's an auto and the base-model with a squishy suspension, maybe C.

However you slice it: As long as your former daily driver isn't an overly prepared, very capable car with parts that "were already on it when I got it" (Uh-huh...), nobody is really gonna give a crap. An 18-year-old Matrix isn't worth a pile of money even in this weird, terrible used car market.

Welcome to the shitshow!! I'll be at buttonwillow as well, feel free to swing by if you've got any questions! Make sure you understand the rule book cover to cover and feel free to ask questions if you're not sure. I think you'll be surprised how reliable your car is, but you really want to focus on making sure you'll pass tech on your first build.

Thanks for all the responses. Nice to see an active forum! Actually, my Matrix is a base engine AWD automatic, so it's gonna run even slower than the base FWD. C0 sounds great, but I will still have to get over the following hesitations:

• An AWD Matrix is rare and I'm wondering if I should preserve it.

• I may mess with it off-road, instead of Lemons.

• My 17yo son thinks it's "his" car!!
  

I'm gonna go watch some more Lemons videos to overcome the above.

So a Matrix/Vibe has been on the wishlist for a while from the Judges.  The 1.8 is a damned near indestructible engine but you are likely hearing the one or two maintence items you have not addressed...cam chain tensioner and valve adjustment.  My 200K miles example was BARELY in spec on the 3 valves and the original tensioner was luckily leaking oil like British car because after pulling it to replace the oring it was totally collapsed.

So prepping a car for Lemons is a $3500-4500 for most people and more for many.  Your Viking funeral is fine but planning for at least a few races to recoup that investment is probably wise.  The engines are super cheap at self-service yards and not super valuable to full service yeards because of the longevity and the deart of 1ZZ-FE's sold in what were relatively disposable cars.  AWD transmission are hard to find but the "conversion" to FWD automatic is (from memory so do not quote me) just swapping the mounts.

No unnecessary swapping of anything is planned! Hoping to just set it and forget it.

If that’s just for the car prep, not entrance and other fees, it's more than I expected. What would that include? I’m hoping to weld in a roll cage myself and look for good quality used safety gear.

Seriously?! Why must you put such thoughts in my brain?! I’ve thought about putting in some strut spacers and bigger tires. I suppose a small low AWD could be versatile for this. Hmm. But one step at a time! I don’t even have approval from the mrs yet.

You just have to find the right spouse…one of the main reasons I am on here is to encourage bad Lemons decisions. Just say no to BMW

That’s true… I didn’t mind the BMW w/Chevy small block TH350 swap.

Don't freak out on the price. Take 6 months or so to do it and you won't really notice the cost that much. Also remember you have team mates.

Also aside from the cage, all your other stuff is removable and reusable.

Cage kit  from RCC = $1100 plus shipping so likely $1250 in today's market (used to be $825 including shipping to freight dock near you).  Add welding consumables of about $100 (seems high...likely is not with how much C25 and MIG wire are now).  FYI, for us in our region with (lack of) discounts on DOM tube, RCC is the cost of shipping more than raw materials and well worth it.

Seat...good luck finding used as some can but we never did.  Corbeau FX1 = $470. You still have to mount it.  Might find and Ultrashoeld or Kirkey cheaper but I lost track.

Cheap latch and link harness is about $150

Fire suppression about $450 shipped.

4 tires in that size are likely to want,  $140 plus mount and ballance.  You can just run old all seasons, we have on two difference IoE contenders, but the experience is...special.

Full brake service($100-$200) and at least something that can handle the heat for front pads ($100) and decent fluid ($20).

Fresh fluid all the way around (less coolant as that is just water) $80.

These are the minimums.  So if you just run the all-season that are on the car you can convince yourself you can do it for $3000...but you won't.  This list is almost exactly $3500 and has no fat in it.  As a veteran team with other cars to steal from we have fielded a car for $1600 back when a cage kit was $825 delivered by borrowing seat, harness, etc from a different car we were not racing that weekend.

Finally, this is car prep, not spares, logistics items, tools, transportation, fees, personal safety gear, fueling needs.  Just "this car is race ready" (even forgot the kill switch and wire!).  With a team of 304 likel-minded idiots, it is down to $875 each or less.