"old hillclimb car FREE!!!" - '78 Fiesta + Honda V-4 swap (Page 1 of 3)

Nice...sounds like a horribly awesome idea.  Need more build posts.

Unsurprisingly, the Speeduino firmware did not have a mode for Honda ST1300 timing wheels.
The crank wheel has 12 evenly spaced teeth. The cam wheel has teeth at 0, 180, and 330.

In hindsight, I should have just shaved two of the teeth off the cam wheel and used Speeduino's generic "two wheel" decoder settings, but I'm an idiot so I coded a new decoder for the ST1300's timing wheels.

It took a while to get it right.

This is a test setup that doesn't involve setting anything on fire. The blue cable is the ECU, the silver cable goes to a $10 8 channel probe, and the headphone jack is wired into the analog inputs for cank and cam wheels.

Top-left: playing a waveform that's close enough to what the processed decoder wheel signals look like.
Bottom-left: Traces of spark and injector channels, very wrong.
Right: ECU outputs.

Eventually though, it ran!
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/ … 154144.mp4

And it knocks like a mofo. No matter, there's still the "bad" motor.

Where's the f'in subscribe button?!

Wondering why there are ten pounds of gears between the crank and the... alternator?
For what reason?

(look in the manual) "Oh... oh."

Calm down, Honda. Damn.

Transmission sure comes out easily though.

A couple of things come to mind in this.

1.  This is awesome.
2.  From experience with motorcycle engined cars with OE clutch (Toyohog), the clutch is gonna be your weak point.  Bring lots of spares.
3.  This might be the biggie.  Most motorcycle engines turn counter clockwise and the Kent turns clockwise.

Before ordering anything to get it up to race standards, it has to move under its own power.
Here's what stands in the way of that as of today:

- Find a replacement passenger-side inner CV joint.
- Finish fabrication of chain drive shafts. (in progress 70%)
- Finish fabrication of chain drive housing / adapter mount. (in progress 30%)
- Order fasteners.
- Sort the brakes.
- Finish checking tolerances on the #2 motor, button it back up with the clutch from #1 motor. Install new coolant o-rings.

I'll be sure to bring a spare clutch.

My current understanding, that fate has smiled upon us and everything is spinning in the right direction, is entirely based on an assumption that the car's transmission is not currently in reverse.

I should really check.

Holy. Crap.

[Subscribed]

Also: Tip-top forum handle.

Learned two things today.

GEARS

Twenty of them, more than a semi, plus four reverse gears.

What to do? Five speed sequential, four on the floor, or both?
So many different terrible ways the shifters could be combined...

But the boring answer is the right one in this case.

I'm not sure which set of ratios to choose though.
Is The Ridge a track where you want to be gear limited at 98?

Can a Ford BC-4 transaxle can handle 137 lb/ft?

While it sounds fun to be Trucker Tim shuffling through both shifters on his Brownie Box down the straights, I think you'd be better off choosing  one bike gear and using the transaxle the rest of the time.  I would guess 3rd would be the sweet spot.  Also one spare clutch probably won't do it, probably need 3.  If a yellow causes a stack up in that 2-3-4-5 or T10 area, one single rough clutch slip on an uphill start from stop or near stop will smoke the clutch.  Even pit stops will benefit greatly with pushing the car to get it rolling before engaging the clutch.  That's probably the only time I'd use the bike trans, to get it rolling from a stop and then stick it in 3rd.  The clutch wasn't designed for something that weighed 3-4x what the bike weighs and standing starts are super rough on it.

You go boy.

I'm also curious how you are transmitting the power from the bike output to the car trans input shaft.  If using a chain, be aware that a few of the other car/bike mashups had problems with the chain being too short.  It turns out those long chain runs on a bike are beneficial to the chain as it allows time for the chain to air cool itself before absorbing heat on the next tension run.  When the chain has been too short, the chain overheats and fails.  I think that's why timing chains are oil cooled and harleys run that big wide chain or belts on their primary..  Another mistake I've seen is underestimating the engine mount strength required with the engine bending the shit out of the mounts as it tries to use the chain to suck itself closer to whatever it is it's driving, in this case a transaxle.