Is the vacuum signal bouncing or very low? If its not making much vacuum you might be able to shift the maps to the max vacuum and atmospheric pressure and give it better granularity. Im not sure if you can shift or add rows or columns on megasquirt though.
If you are getting a smooth swing of the tps its the way to go for this IMO. Just make sure there isnt too little resistance through the tps (wot and idle swing will show little voltage change, between 2-3volts.) I have had a couple fry because resistance was low. I usually add a 500-1k ohm resistor on the = & - of the tps if its 3kohms or less. Get a spare tps so your weekend isnt over if it pops if you go alpha-n.
0 degrees of timing will help hot cranking for sure. You could add a second battery in the battery to starter solenoid cable so you get 24v to the starter to get more cranking speed/power. It should get you started a bunch of times and can be charged overnight.
Whats up with the lower right cylinder? ITB out of sync?
I cant wait to see video of this on the track!
I haven't looked into it that much yet. the motor just seems like it does not pull much vacuum. it also needs a TON of ignition advance to get some power from it.
the lower right cylinder got flooded before that video was taken because the throttle body rotated. it was fixed in that video but it just seems like the slurry of oil and gas did not get hot enough to clean out. the cylinder was firing occasionally so it should clear out once i give it enough time to warm up/clean.
good call on the TPS, i have one in the shop already i'll just remember to throw it in the toolbox.
Does it drive?
+1 on the 24v battery, as long as you don't overheat the starter.
Megasquirt can shift maps, so if your lowest vacuum is something like .7 BAR, you can still have a smooth map from .7 to 1. The row/column count is fixed, though.
Have you checked the throttles for equal clearance at some random throttle setting, just off idle? You might want to close off (or open all the way) the little screw on top that controls idle on a normal engine, and make sure that the slider thingies on the left side aren't stuck open on any of them (the high idle valves). That and equal clearances should make it nice and even.
Are you running it on E85 already?
no, it does not drive yet. that's what i plan on shifting my attention to now that it runs. frankly at this point it's running well enough for a victory lap or two and it should all be fixable with a tune.
there is no room for a 2nd battery, but right now i have the lowest of the low range cheap battery in there. a higher CCA battery should be available.
not sure what the fuel is, it's whatever was in the car when i got it. it smells like it's mostly varnish at this point. so perhaps it's about what the motor was designed to run on
I did pick up the finished oil tank this morning and I sent the judges a clarifying question about the oil lines. once I get their reply I'll be able to mount it.
i also have all the materials needed to mount the seat and build the cage. I'll count this weekend as a success if i get all the interior done (except for the steering wheel mount since i know i don't have all the materials needed for that right now)
*edit* the concern about E-85 is it does not appear that there is any available near the track and the car will have a voracious appetite for fuel.