Trying to install a Kill Switch on a MAzda RX7

Ok, before anybody else comes on here and flames you, make sure to use the search tool for "kill switch" and/or "battery disconnect switch". This is well-covered territory on this forum.

The short version is that you need to kill 2 circuits: the circuit to the battery and the ignition circuit. If that switch does not kill the motor at tech, you will fail tech. I'm sure you're aware of this otherwise you wouldn't be bringing it up here, right?

Are you using a 2-pole or a 4-pole switch? If you are using a 4-pole switch then you can connect the large lugs through the positive circuit on the battery and the small lugs through the ignition circuit. By which I mean take the wire that is hot when the key is in the "on" position, run it to one of the small lugs, then run the other side of that wire from the other small lug. Your wiring harness and keyswitch may be different, so YMMV and read your wiring diagram. Turning the ignition switch to "off" thus closes both the battery circuit and the ignition circuit, which closes the main relay and shuts off the alternator and thus the motor.

Personally, I like the Longacre kill switch, although others have indicated that they've had one fail, but I haven't. Longacre part no. 45788 is a 4-pole switch and is weatherproof to boot. It's also about $10 more expensive than part no. 45785, which is identical except for the waterproof part, but that $10 will seem mighty well spent when you get caught out in the rain, especially if your kill switch is exposed to the weather.

Good luck!

In addition to needing to read the previous Kill Switch posts, he should also read the safety posts about hearing protection.

RX7s are really freaking LOUD!!!!!

I agree with Mulry we used the Longacre.  This is the bane of the existence of many a Lemons team.  As said, you need to kill the battery as well as the ignition circuit.  Ours also kills the alternator output because.. well we screwed up and left that wiring there too.  The engine can't sputter and die, its just gotta straight out die.

We are using the heavy duty Habor Freight switch. The body is all metal and the handle is not removable. It's a 2 poler.

We're using the Moroso Kill switch mounted to the hood at the top of the shock tower:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74101/10002/-1

careful though, the description is misleading as it says it's for cars with alternators, but it's only a 2-pole. we used a 300A Harbor Freight inverter wiring kit and placed it inline with our main relay center. Kills everything and it's operated in 40F rainy weather at both nelson ledges and southern discomfort. very solid switch that I'm more comfortable with that the cheap HF ones. I don't have experience with the Longacre ones but the Flaming River stuff seems like pro-grade.