1 (edited by herbies 2010-07-17 09:48 PM)

Topic: VW beetle rear hoop support brace mount/plinthe box support

I am installing a cage into a 76 beetle.

Need some feedback on where I welded my rear main support tubes to.  I welded them to 6x6x0.085 plate on the flat surface just underneath the window.  I have no shock tower or other suspension point to connect to...is this ok?

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx204/70455gto/1973%20Vdub/lemonsrearhoopsupportfloormountsm.jpg

And Plinthe box backup for the main hoop mounting points.  I welded to the floor pan and the heater tube.  Do I need another plate for the plinthe to have a flat bottom so as not to cut through the heater tube? 

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx204/70455gto/1973%20Vdub/lemonsPlinthebox.jpg


Is my main hoop to a pillar too low?  Whats the minimum helmet to top of bar distance thats allowed?


http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx204/70455gto/1973%20Vdub/lemonsrearhoopsupporttubes.jpg


Are there requirements for spreader plates to be welded 360 to floor?  SOme of the stampings/features makes this difficult and I cannot see the benefit in wasting the mig wire/

Re: VW beetle rear hoop support brace mount/plinthe box support

Rear supports look fine - that's where we have them in the Karmann Ghia. Not sure about the main hoop. I'll let someone else comment on that. We also tied the main hoop into the tunnel with a couple of extra tubes running on a diagonal down and towards the back, one from each leg. Seems like on the beetle pan, the tunnel is the most structural element. Might add a little extra insurance, and probably helps tie the car together. We also ran tubes from the bottom door bars across to the tunnel, and from the dash bar down.

Re: VW beetle rear hoop support brace mount/plinthe box support

Zachreligious wrote:

Rear supports look fine - that's where we have them in the Karmann Ghia. Not sure about the main hoop. I'll let someone else comment on that. We also tied the main hoop into the tunnel with a couple of extra tubes running on a diagonal down and towards the back, one from each leg. Seems like on the beetle pan, the tunnel is the most structural element. Might add a little extra insurance, and probably helps tie the car together. We also ran tubes from the bottom door bars across to the tunnel, and from the dash bar down.

The strongest place for a rear tube to land is the frame horns, this is quite difficult to get to and clean without removing the engine and trans, welding an additional plate in a vertical postison on the side of the wheel well connected to the plate you already have will help alot.

I agree the tunnel is the strength ppoint, tieing in to that would help.

yes 360' welds on the plates are the way to go.

Re: VW beetle rear hoop support brace mount/plinthe box support

Do you hammer the rolled bead flat to allow it to be welded?  Ive got .25" gaps where the sheetmetal is rolled.  Whaddyado?

Re: VW beetle rear hoop support brace mount/plinthe box support

Herbies,
We pulled our B-pillar closer to the door then our car has a piece of tubing that runs from the torsion bar all the way to the front end and clamps on the front end.  So efectively we have a structural member to tie to besides the sheet metal.  Than we ran the rear bars down from the hoop and tied them to the torsion bar as well.  They are a little steep but way stronger place to connect to than the sheet metal.  with what you have right now I would leave the B Pillar but cut new pieces and hole saw or sawzall the pan and body to expose enough of the torsion housing to weld your rear memebers to.  The torsion bar will not move if you roll.  All buggies unlimited to a basic Myers are based on the torsion housing being the foundation.  Just make sure to pull the rubber first. 

Unless this is a treasured bug you won't notice the wholes in the floor pan and body.

Good luck love to see more pictures.

Organizer's Choice Houston Yee-Haw Its Lemons 08', DNF Houston Yee-Haw Its Lemons 09'
Ugly Class 3 Winner Houston Gator-o-Rama  10', Ugly Class 3 Winner BFE Colorado 10', Ugly Class 3 Winner Texas World Speedway 12, We got Screwed Winner ECR 14', Barely Finished MSR 14' took a few years off but trying like hell for IOE in 2017!

Re: VW beetle rear hoop support brace mount/plinthe box support

herbies wrote:

Do you hammer the rolled bead flat to allow it to be welded?  Ive got .25" gaps where the sheetmetal is rolled.  Whaddyado?

Yes, fold the bead over if necessary.

In general to get good shaped fits on the spreader plates, there are a couple of options:
-Shape the spreader plates in a press before welding.
-shape the spreader plates w/ vise & torch & hammer before welding.
-Shape plate w/ torch & hammer after welding has begun.
-Shape floor up to meet plate, using hammer.

Jim C.
If God meant for us to race, we'd all have baggy Nomex skin.
08TMS.09NL.10GM, SP, NL.11SP, NL.12SP, VIR, NL.13GM, NJ.14NJ, VIR, WGI.15AB.16GM.17NCM.18GM.19...

Re: VW beetle rear hoop support brace mount/plinthe box support

Don't forget "use bolt-through underplate and squeeze with crushing force until flat"

Jim "Endo" Anderton
30 years of racing and still not Brambilla.....

Re: VW beetle rear hoop support brace mount/plinthe box support

We ran our cage out to the front suspension and to the rear horns.

Photos  here
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/pho … 0548740854

We went through the back seat area right to the suspension.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1 … 0548740854

EuroTrash E30 - Lemons South 08 (cooling probs) 24th /CMP  Spring 09 (fuel tank damage) one day on track 69th /Lemons South 09 (Hit by an Escort) 27th
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