• From: Greenville, TX
  • Registered: 2009-09-11
  • Posts: 169

Topic: Torque Wrench Suggestions

I'm needing some suggestions for a good torque wrench (or horrible ones to avoid).  I was expecting to grab the same 3/8" my Dad has, but they've gone to a digital output which I would prefer to avoid.  I just don't trust that the digital gauge will last 20 years, and I'll have a wrench with all the mechanical bits and no idea of the force. 

I'm thinking something in the 5-100 ft./lbs. range because I do more motorcycle work than cars, and often need that 10-20 ft./lb. spec.  Around $100?  Words of wisdom?

Plain Jane '86 BMW 535i - Current
RIP People's Elbowed Protege - 2010
  • BoB
  • BoB
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  • From: Elmhurst, IL
  • Registered: 2009-05-01
  • Posts: 4,206

Re: Torque Wrench Suggestions

I ended up with a harbor freight.  mechanical simple and cheap.  highly doubt it will last 20 years cause it is harbor freight.

I would think you should be able to find most quality brands still making the non digital.  Most people for home would prefer the old style since they will work forever.  Now are you looking for one that just reads the torque or the click to stop type.  I like the click to stop since I can set it and then once you get the feel you don't have to see anything to know you have it torqued correctly.  but I know sears online was selling a bunch of ones with an analogue output for amount of torque but they may have only been for low torquing situation.

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  • From: Safety Harbor, FL (Tampa)
  • Registered: 2009-04-30
  • Posts: 668

Re: Torque Wrench Suggestions

Back when I bought mine 10 years ago, the Husky brand sold at Home Depot had a lifetime warranty and was only like $35.  I keep it in the plastic case that it came in and take good care of it, no worries.

I'd expect the digital versions to be as accurate or more so than the mechanical ones, and both should be able to hold their calibration just fine as long as you don't drop them or bang them around.  If you ARE rough on equipment, you should look into having your torque wrench calibrated every year or two.  (when I was in the AF, we did it every month on some of the smaller ones... but we were working on nuclear weapons, not crap can race cars)

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  • From: Greenville, TX
  • Registered: 2009-09-11
  • Posts: 169

Re: Torque Wrench Suggestions

I wasn't all too clear at first.  The click style is preferred.  The one I was hoping to find has a nice readout in multiple units, based on your setting.  I'm easy on equipment, but shy away from electronics for many reasons.  Lemons racing doesn't always stay dry either!

Plain Jane '86 BMW 535i - Current
RIP People's Elbowed Protege - 2010
  • Mulry
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  • From: Dallas, TX
  • Registered: 2009-05-01
  • Posts: 4,607

Re: Torque Wrench Suggestions

Grassroots Motorsports did a comparo in the last year or so in which they put the HF $20 torque wrench heads-up against (IIRC) a Craftsman and an uber-expensive Snap-On. The HF wrench was essentially just as accurate as the other two and being so cheap, you can simply pitch it and get a new one every year. I use my old one as a long wrachet keep the new one in the plastic case. The most important thing to remember about torque wrenches is to store them without any tension on the spring, otherwise they go out of calibration pretty fast.

Pat Mulry, TARP Racing #67

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  • From: Aumsville, Oregon (Near Salem)
  • Registered: 2010-08-22
  • Posts: 1,913

Re: Torque Wrench Suggestions

Where would I go to get a torque wrench calibrated?   I inherited a very nice Snap-On one, but it was stored with tension on it for many years.

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  • From: Sacramento
  • Registered: 2010-08-09
  • Posts: 1,665

Re: Torque Wrench Suggestions

Calibrate:
get a fish scale - at least to 30lbs.
put wrench on immovable object, like a VW rear wheel nut.
Measure wrench.
Figure value - 12" at the wrench lock-nut is 1:1, 18" is 1.5:1 and so forth. do the math.
Pull up with fish scale at some setting like 30 ft/lb and adjust to click for appropriate calibration number...

I have stopped using ANY brand "Click" except the dial-type snap-on because they are WILDLY inaccurate out of the box - as in it is difficult to "Dial in" @40ft/lb because the "Dial" reads either side of 40, which means I'm doing 30, 40 or 50 unless I test it. This is Craftsman, Proto and two different HF's in either the 3/8" or 1/2".
~grease or dirt on the "ball" can alter the sensitivity, temperature has an effect on the spring and as stated the index can be difficult or misleading. Wanna bet? get out the fish-scale before you flame me - ask someone who doesn't "know" your tool to set 58ft/lb and see how it goes (you'll probably need a big fish scale).

The good 'ol Beam type is within 2.5lb every time - and if not exposed to a house fire is good 'til the ink wears off the table.

Except for routine calibration needs, the non-budget digital items seem to be pretty fair - I just don't have a name-brand one in the budget.