Now what to ghettocharge? (Page 1 of 2)

Score!!  That's awesome.  I like the slant6 turbo idea, though that might just be too reliable.

Even though that was free, you're gonna wanna bring a metric crap ton of bribery to B.S. tech.  Nothing is "free" :-)

Put it on some sort of sad VW?
Fox?
4cyl Quantum?

Look like the same "stuff" we used on the Snoopy Van, make sure you put a screen between the turbo and the intake. Oh, make sure you have a large fire extinguisher handy also.

We slapped a turbo on the (formerly) Mr. Bean 998cc mini and it actually hauled ass (when it was running). The mini is undergoing a re-theme and has been renamed Team LeMini Autosarcopahgy in honor of the propensity to eat itself, and we plan on trying to run the turbo as long as the supply of engines and head lasts.

I want to see how much boost the GM Iron Duke can handle. How about a Turbo '81 Phoenix?

Here is another one. GM Atlas engine. I've seen a few wrecked trailblazers/Envoys go for $1200 around here. Well within partout range.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaPnBWZo … mp;list=UL

....or turbo the Metsho using all these stock Z31/Cressida EFI components I have laying around in a piggyback configuration. If only I had enough residual value left.....

That looks like a pretty large turbo...so my advice is to put it on a horribly undersized engine...so you end up with a power curve that looks like a backwards L......  hit the gas...buh..nothing...wait...wait..wait...BWAAAAHHHH and you GONE

I'll second going with a smaller engine. If you go too big on the motor (Eldo, etc.) you may run into boost creep, i.e. at idle it will build boost and rev up. That's not a good thing when you're going into a turn.

i also like the slant-6 proposition. maybe if the wartburg's original engine was around you could get that, ghettocharge it to 25psi and see if you can get the fastest lap before it blows up.

Here is my idea on how I would use a Z31 EFI as a "piggyback" supplemental fuel system under boost on ANY engine. It's a pretty basic Bosch L-Jetronic style setup that was common in the 80's. Chances are, you might have a parts car with it or a similar system sitting around.

This is what you would need.
1.ECU

2.Fuel pump: In addition to what is already on the car. Don't connect to ECU. Run to an on/off switch in the cockpit or ignition.

3.Injectors: They are hose barb top feed style usually, so no need for a fuel rail aside from retaining the fuel pressure regulator. All 6 are batch fired every 1/2 crankshaft rotation. This means you can use only 3 of them if you've got a Geo Metro, 4 for a Bug, etc. Pretty easy to drill holes in the intake runner to mount.

4.Head temp sensor: Just screws into the head. You can replace it with a correct resistor, but it will be less accurate.

5.Crank angle sensor: This is an optical style with a window wheel located in the distributor. You could drive it off the cam sprocket, or graft the sensor and wheel into your car's distributor if there is room. It's pretty small.

6.MAF sensor: Hot wire style. Use a cockpit operated variable resistor to adjust the sensor output to the ecu. This should be a ghetto way to adjust the air/fuel ratio. Yeah, you're probably going to want to install a wideband AFR gauge.

7.Hobbs switch: Normally open, closes at (?)psi. They are like $8. This will be wired in between the CAS signal wire and the ECU. The theory here is at some point the primary fuel system (a carburetor if you want to go hybrid style lol) will start to max out and run lean. This is when you want your hobbs switch to close, thereby sending a CAS signal to the ECU in effect turning it on.

Think this would work? What has everyone been doing so far? I know Eyesore has the FMU thing, but that is a relatively low boost setup. With something like this, I don't see why you couldn't get over 400hp from a durable engine fitted with one of these big china hairdryers.