fuel system venting? (Page 2 of 2)

Since that's a vent line, is there a chance he might not need to encase it?  Since it usually doesn't have fuel in it?  (And certainly won't have pressurized fuel?)  Perhaps an email to John at Evil Genius is in order.

The way I ran my in-cab fuel line was a bit rough but worked great.  I used a 10' piece of EMT (electrical conduit) and straightened out 12' or so of fuel line.  I put the fuel line through the EMT then used an EMT bender to bend both the EMT and the fuel line.  That way it's metal in metal, very safe.  You could easily do the same for a vent line through the cabin, but of course you're not going to get that nice coil in it.

The vent line can have fuel in it.  It also will have vapors in it pretty much always.  I'd say its a pretty safe bet that tech will break your stones about it.

On my previous post i wrote vent, i meant to say fill tube.  I will edit that.

The vent tube can exit out the bottom of the car.  It doesnt have to be up high. If you bring it back down it may actually help keep vapors from continually escaping.   http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2712471  (i posted this last page) shows how the vent line should terminate. 

You can get 1/4" to 3/8" brass barbs at lowes/home depot/hardware stores and use a short section of 3/8ths fuel hose for the 3/8ths rollover vent valve.  3/8 is the smallest i have seen.  This way its easy to show tech if they want to see it.  Just make sure its pointed up and is in the right way.

If you arent sure if the new vent stuff will work and the old vent stuff worked ok you probably are better off putting the stock vent stuff back in.

If you post a link to a straight on pic of your trunk area sort of showing the roof and the floor i'll do a quick photoshop of it what i'd do with the electrical conduit to encase it inside the car.

  I would use rubber or ss braided hose inside the conduit or put 1" pieces of rubber hose over the line every 6-8" if you used a metal line inside the conduit.  You dont know if it will rattle around and could get stressed and cause a leak.

This is excessively tall.  It would be a pita to next to impossible to bend it and get it in like this.  The red circles are holes through the floor.  I wouldnt recommend the yellow route.  The upper right corner is out of view, thats why it looks broken.

I would either try to block off the holes on the drivers side where the orange A is and run the line up in there if its possible to block that whole rear section off.  Rubber fuel hose would make it easier to get in.  You can use insulated clamps to hold the line in place.  You could screw on the plate over the A opening and maybe put the roll over valve in there so you can show it if they want to see it.  You can pop rivet or tack weld the other block off plates on.

The other option i see is doing a similar thing as the yellow electrical conduit but running it up through the floor near the very rear, across the bottom of where the hatch goes, then back down through the floor.  I think this would be the easiest way if the A area sucks to block off.  Im guessing it would be easier to do with where i think the tank is too.  Having the roll over valve facing the right way might be a tough to do in the limited space under the car.

Again, if this all seems beyond what you think you guys can do put the stock stuff back.

I gotcha, its hard to tell what people can do by just words.  I want to help but want to make sure people arent trying things they arent comfortable with when messing with safety stuff.