Racing belts- where is a good place to order them?

Right here at LeMons-mart... http://yhst-14891464457018.stores.yahoo … sfiha.html

I am a huge fan of crow enterprizes, prices are good quality is excellent. 

That being said the purple crow harness is going with one of our other Lemons rides this year because I just picked up a used Sparco 5pt camlock off of a ricer that did the drifty into a curb before he could install it for $80 yay me.

We got our initial harnesses from Summit, RJS Latch Link 5 points for $60.

Later I found 5 point Nismo Camlocks on eBay for around $80.  The harnesses were new and seem fine, 12/08 date when I bought them early this year.  However, one of the SFI tags unraveled on the edges and came off the drivers belt.  There are several more but it bothers me.

One big issue is determining how you will install them.  I think most cage failures in Tech at MSR recently were for improper harness mounting.

Our first set of harnesses were bolt in and did not offer enough adjustability since they only adjusted in the front at the latches.  This can be more of an issue with various sized drivers and a sliding seat.

Available adjustability may depend on manufacturer.  So those got swapped for wrap arounds which adjusted in the front and back.  Again, the adjustability factors may vary by manufacturer and many bolt-ins I have seen can be adjusted in the front and back.  This is way more versatile and the bolt in tab can be easily removed and the belt wrapped around a harness bar.

Our Cam Locks are clip in which are nice and came with the mounting hardware.  Tech likes to see locking pins of some form in the clips if you have those.

Thanks all, I bought  a 5 point harness.

Now I have another question.  The cage is built and we have decided on a seat placement but it is now about 2-3" away from the horizontal cross tube on the cage.  I was hoping the seat would be flush against the cage but it isn't.  So how do we brace or connect the Kirkey seat to the cross tubing?  Any idea's?? One team mate suggested putting a wood block between the seat and cross tube.  the wood will be securely connected to the tube via U bolts and the seat will be attached to the wood blocks.  There will be no gaps and it will be secure, would that pass tech?

Yeah, all Lemons racers get the link to the Pyrotect store--they give our racers a break on the pricing so we definitely like to plug them.

As for this...

...I don't know what to tell you.

I responded to this off-list but I'll double it up for everyone's benefit--as long as the harness bar is within six inches of the seatback, it doesn't need to be braced. Purpose-built braces are better than homemade ones--I/O Port makes a unit that our chief tech inspector particularly likes...

Hmmmm. Well no one piped in with what wrong with the belt installation above, so here it is:
1) The 3-bar buckles are not adjacent to the harness bar. In an incident, these will be subject to many times your torso weight, and the slack will pull through the buckle, causing it to slide to the bar. With many belts I can demonstrate this by simply yanking the belts and pulling slack with hand force.

In the above picture it appears that the buckles are 2-3" from the bar, so the harnesses will length by 4-6". This is like going out with 4-6" of slack in your shoulder belts. In a front impact, your head is going to strike the wheel or even windshield (remember, belts stretch quite a bit) or a-pillar cage bar.

2)There is no side-to-side restraint on the harness bar wrap. The seat brace does prevent the left belt from going right and the right belt from going left, but there's nothing to prevent the left belt from going left and the right belt from going right. This is important in impacts that aren't head-on, such as the dreaded 1 o'clock impact. In a double impact (common when the car strikes a wall -- first the front hits, then the rear), it's easy for the belts to spread and come off your shoulders. The usual solution for this is collars bolted to the bar or bar padding held in place with tie wraps or a loop of steel rod welded around where the harnesses wrap.

Even though the seat has grommets, the seat, and driver will move quite a bit in an incident and the should anchor needs to stay fixed.