AustinSTX wrote:...I interrupted the engine's power from the battery. Hooked up this way, the engine continues to run when I switch it to off (but the car wont start in the off position).
What kill switch do you have? I have this one from the Lemons store: https://24hoursoflemons.myshopify.com/c … ill-switch See the image below for the wiring diagram that comes with the switch.
When the switch is closed:
-The main battery + connection is closed
-'W or 1' is open
-'Z or 2' is closed
When the switch is open, it is all reversed:
-The main battery + connection is open
-'W or 1' is closed
-'Z or 2' is open
The key to your issue is the 'Z or 2' connection (I'll call it Z). You need to find a circuit in your car that, when interrupted, immediately kills the engine when it is running. To find this on my car, I started the car and went to the fuse box and started pulling fuses one at a time until I found one that killed the engine. I then wired that circuit up through the Z connection on the kill switch.
If you can't find a circuit that kills the engine with my fuse pulling method, then you need to break out the wiring diagram for the car and find something there. Some people have suggested that interrupting the fuel pump may be a good option here, but most cars will continue to run for a few moments after pulling the fuel pump circuit, so that might not pass tech.
You also need to wire up the W connection as shown in the diagram so that you don't kill your alternator (so I'm told).
Make sure you tape up all the connections on the back of the switch so that you don't have any exposed battery + connections. This is an instant tech fail.
Also be sure that all power goes through the switch. Meaning that a cable should run from your battery positive to the switch, and nothing else should be connected to battery positive or draw any power from the cable running from the battery to the switch. All power to the car should be connected somewhere on the other side of the switch from the battery.
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