1 (edited by T-Money645 2010-07-02 01:06 PM)

Topic: Hawk Blues

Ok, my team is about to drop some serious bank roll (for a bunch of broke asses) on some nice brakes for the race. We want front pads that will last the entire race. Our car weighs in at about 3800-4000 pounds ish. Will the blue last us (at MSR)? I know this isn't a formula, and it depends on the driver as well. But has anyone here run hawk blues on a heavy turd of a car and had them last? Thanks for the input everyone!

P.S- We are leaning towards the blues because they are cheaper than the other brands we have been looking at. We are open to suggestions though.

Rednektified Racing - Team Captain
#101 Moby Slick
2010: Yee-Haw "Most horrible yank tank" (DNF)

Re: Hawk Blues

Seriously consider Carbotech. They are hella expensive, but out last everything else I've seen (like 3-4 times longer)

Yee-Haw 2010 "Most Heroic Fix" & "I Got Screwed" -2 trophies for 1 lap, but I took checkered on my lap.
Gator-O-Rama 2012 "Organizers Choice" -2 laps 1 trophy, but i still finished ahead of an E30
Yee-Haw 2013 No trophy -26 laps, I think I see a pattern here
Gator-O-Rama 2014 "Waiting for the Last Minute Call from the Governor Award" -who's counting? John

Re: Hawk Blues

We ran blues on the Wartburg, much lighter and overbraked so probably not a good benchmark but our pads barely look broken in at this point.

http://wartburg.misfittoysracing.com
OTTER: "I think that this situation absolutely requires a really futile and stupid gesture be done on somebody's part."
BLUTO: "We're just the guys to do it."

Re: Hawk Blues

Our C10 lasted all of Reno, or about 12hrs of heavy use out of cheapo $20 semi-metallics.  YMMV.

Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Re: Hawk Blues

That's a heavy car.  You need to seriously consider running cooling ducts.

Re: Hawk Blues

If you're going to run Hawks get the DTC-60's, those are race pads. Check into some new rotors too, NOT drilled, perhaps slotted, but not cross-drilled. You really need to get some ducting to those rotors too, you'll fry 'em if you don't.  Porterfield R4 are also a great race pad.   We use the Powerslot slotted rotors with Hawk DTC-60 pads on front, Hawk Blues in the rear, we have good ducting, steel lines and high temp DOT 4 brake fluid. We use stock sizes, just upgraded for racing, high temps and cooling ducts. Cheapest and most effective way without going all out on a big brake conversion

Re: Hawk Blues

Our Porterfeild fronts have 47 1/2 hours on them. They're backed-up by Porterfeild SHOES in the rear!!

Yeah baby!
#47 Impreza:  2009 Lamest Day; 3rd / 2010 Capital Offense; 4th (with a blown head gasket) / 2010 New England something or another; 60 somethingth, f'n wheel bearing / 2010 Lemons Fall South 77th out a 101 - all 10 feet shot off! Then there was Miami...

Re: Hawk Blues

We've run with Wagner Severe Duty pads in our P71 Crown Vic for CMP and our GTP for Summit Point, both times they performed extremely well. Lots of stopping power and no fade at all. On the GTP we decided to keep the same pads in for day two because they still had atleast 75% life left on them.

Team Final Gear Crew Chief
#138 1997 Pontiac GTP - Supercharged 3800
#42   1999 Ford P71 Crown Vic

9 (edited by fifty 2010-07-02 06:45 PM)

Re: Hawk Blues

We ran the Hawk Blues and cooling ducts ( at Dallas - went through about 50% of the pad in 2 days.

On the plus side, they are cheap and can handle high temps. On the down side they seemed hard to modulate - they were either 100% on and locking up the front tires, or they were off.

Ducts are easy - one of our team purchased $12 RV sewage dump tubing from the automotive aisle at Walmart. The tubing is corrugated plastic and was surprisingly durable. We use a couple of sheet metal screws to attach them to the front of the car, and then zip tied them to the control arms as they were fed back towards the rotors.

This is the sh!t I'm referring to:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-20-Heav … gMethod=rr

http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/01/47/17/39/0001471739631_500X500.jpg

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee226/Xqizitevo/DSCN0264.jpg


Do a Google search for "DIY BRAKE DUCT" - there's a lot of inspiration out there.

Re: Hawk Blues

We heard that ECR was hella rough on brakes, so bought Carbotech XP10s for our heavy Jaguar. Ended up not getting the car ready in time, so we're not sure how they'll work yet. Spent $300+ on the pads, custom ordered through Amp'd Motorsports. Also spent $190 on new rotors (rears were on clearance). Jags suck for parts prices.

Do NOT buy your pads from JDM Hub - Carbotech has a warning on their website.

Re: Hawk Blues

I should add that we ran a 240z (~2200#, maybe 140hp) and had no probs with fading.

The other thing you need to think about is high temp fluid. we ran Motul RBF 600: http://www.amazon.com/Motul-RBF-Racing- … B000AURZ08
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21JeyHRnWTL._SS400_.jpg

Anything else is a gamble, IMO. We ran both days without doing a flush. We needed 2 quarts for a complete flush in our system.

12 (edited by ProDarwin 2010-07-03 06:59 AM)

Re: Hawk Blues

T-Money645 wrote:

Our car weighs in at about 3800-4000 pounds ish. Will the blue last us (at MSR)? I know this isn't a formula, and it depends on the driver as well.

The two other MAJOR factors (more important than weight in most cases):

Grip
Hp

Remember, brakes dissipate energy.  In this case that is instantaneous power * time (kw*s = kj) integrated from one corner to the next.  More grip means the brakes soak up that energy faster and also more energy is delivered due to more time on the gas.