Specs he gives are choke size for IDF - I hope you're not running IDF's! those would be worth more than the car...
It's a good basic intro to tuning, but not really what you are looking for.
I'd give you the numbers on my turbo-suck-thru 1600DP, but those would only be a baseline and probably only be different than what you have, not necc. better.
One thing - Fuel pressure is relevant! run 4~6 psi for repeatable results. More or less is NOT good.
So:
"Weber Baseline" for "Replacement conversion" - based on a 1600dp:
Aux vent (the venturi in the middle of the airflow, you need to verify this size) 3.5/3.5 ( with 1.7 or 2.0 you might be happier with a 4.5 in the secondary)
Main Jets (in float bowl) 137/140 (each tube - I would go 140/142 instead)
Emulsion Tubes F50 (if you have F16's they will do but tend to go lean "on top" a shade easier, otherwise F16/F50 are *virtually* the same)
Air correction jet (Above emulsion tube, holds them in) 165pri/160sec (I might try 140's in the secondary)
Idle Jets (in the sides of the body, screw in from outside and press into the screw) 60pri/50sec
Pump jet (the upside-down antler in the top) 50 (I'm running a 60)
FLoat valve (yep, the fuel inlet needle and seat are available in different sizes - if you run E-85 you MUST change this one!) std is 2.0 - if it's smaller expect issues at long-run high rpms.
These numbers should get you in the ballpark. As noted you might need to vary the main jets up a step or two and you might need to manage the air correctors up or down one or two steps.
~more than that means something is hideously wrong elsewhere! Like the aux vent size, clogged emulsion tubes or???
~ comparing "oem" numbers on 2liter euro cars - you might need to get the secondary air corrector down to 70 - as in microscopic - if you have a 3.5 aux venturi in it. If you have a 4.5 in the secondary the basic numbers seem to hold... The smallest air corrector I have in my jet box is 120!
...the rest of the numbers are, again, a pretty good baseline.