Topic: Exhaust gasket material
I need to find some sheet material to make a replacement gasket.
What can I use?
KT
SP 2011- 105th ~ SP 2012- 119th ~ SP 2013- 139th ~ BW 2013- 17th
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The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Bench Racing → Exhaust gasket material
I need to find some sheet material to make a replacement gasket.
What can I use?
KT
Home Depot has roofing copper. 2 layers of that work pretty well but it can be a pain to cut if it is the manifold side. If the manifold is nice and square you could probably go without.
I used aluminium cans and cardboard , and cardboard and aluminum foil and a lot of orange gasket rtv.
I made a 2-stroke head gasket out of a cheerios box and peanut butter expecting it to last a few minutes at most.
When I took the bike apart 10 years later I was stunned to see what looked like a cheerios box staring back at me. "What the hell is THIS? And who in their right mind... oh wait..."
Chunky or creamy peanut butter?
Chunky or creamy peanut butter?
I believe it was Safeway brand chunky natural style (where you had to mix the oil back in) but with the nutty-bits removed and eaten.
IIRC, it was suggested to me by an old timer who insisted the peanut oils were the secret to making emergency gaskets. For some reason I associate this with Model-A's so the info may be dated.
I am stunned as I would think that some of the modern synthetic oils available in todays processed peanut butters would have superior performance characteristics to old school organics.
If you were shopping at Sams and not Whole Foods I think your car would hold together better and you would not have had to limp it home after the race in Oregon.
Copper RTV. What else do you need???
Copper RTV. What else do you need???
This.
I am stunned as I would think that some of the modern synthetic oils available in todays processed peanut butters would have superior performance characteristics to old school organics.
If you were shopping at Sams and not Whole Foods I think your car would hold together better and you would not have had to limp it home after the race in Oregon.
Touche' ha-ha-ha!
The piece I need is not for the manifold, it's for the down pipe.
KT
Copper RTV will work great there too.
We use metal clad gasket material from NAPA. Coat both sides of the newly formed gasket with hi-temp black rtv. That combination has held for 40 hours of racing so far...our problem was the mating surfaces were not perfectly flat and we kept burning through the gasket. We milled them flat, added the rtv...problem solved.
It's a holiday so I can't get the part #...if you can't find it, write back and I'll call our local store for the #.
I've fixed a leaking head gasket with copper RTV. The stuff is just that good.
I think the secret to leaking headers is start in the center and make circles as you work to the ends. I seem to remember that the spec on MOPAR is around 30-35 ft lbs - two passes. I just tighten them w a solid wrist turn because my tourque wrench never fits. I have had to plane more than one header. The head - not so much.
b
fel pro gasket...pro-ramic 121...#2498...12"x28"x3/64
We got the generic sheet stuff from a local parts store (Kohlweiss) and that work great for the down-pipe to everything after it. We didn't use it between the manifold to the down pipe (the KA motor uses a crush washer there.
A good parts store can order a sheet for you.
There is a ceramic exhaust sealant that we have used in a couple places on a turbo installation (that fried the turbo).
We got it from Kragen or Autozone or someplace like that. I couldn't find it in an online search, but if you go to the store you should be able to find it. It squeezes out like watery tooth paste, but you just lay on a good thick layer and then bolt everything up and let it dry for a couple hours/overnight. it sets up hard and gets harder when it gets hot. We used it on steel to steel interfaces (exhaust manifold to turbo adapter plates) that were not nearly flat and it worked great, sealed them right up.
its a permanent resident in our our repair supplies now.
A slant six in a Dart I was DD-ing for awhile had this nasty habit of eating those manifold-to-downpipe gaskets. Every couple of weeks I was putting in a new one. I kept this up for a while as the gaskets were cheap and easy to replace. But finally, when it became apparent that I just was not going to get a good gasket, I bought a brass switch plate for a light switch from Home Depot, drilled out the exhaust hole and two bolt holes, and put it in. Never had a problem with it leaking after that.
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