stangman4ever wrote:piper.gras wrote:fitsbain wrote:This is a common misconception.
If you have a wheel with a zero offset, and it requires a 1.5 inch spacer to fit, the load on the wheel bearing is the same as if you had a like size wheel with a negative 1.5 inch offset.
The rubber and contact patch is at the same place with relation to the bearing. Hence no difference in load or torsion.
That's true unless you're using spacers to push the wheel out in order to fit a wider wheel/tire combo under the car. For example, If you have a factory setup in which there is .5" of clearance between the suspension and inside of the tire, and you want to go to a wider tire and maintain the same .5" clearance between tire and suspension, you are effectively moving the wheel/tire outwards with respect to the hub/bearing, altering the loading.
I will end up with the exact same clearance as I had with the 14" wheel and tire. one finger width from tire to spring. Tape measure says my finger is 1/2" thick.
Just don't make the same mistake I did:
1987 Honda Prelude: original 13 inch wheels, tire 185/70R13 (+35 offset)....I went to 225/45R15 BFG RIval non S tires
With 15 inch rims, 7 wide, +10 offset
And they stuck out...."Aw, c'mon, just a little bit"....so when I showed up the race, tech made me make new wheel fenders....
So, make sure if you get spacer and have your tire/wheel stick out more, make sure the fenders go beyond the outer edge of the tire...
MarioKart Driving School: 1987 Honda Prelude Si (Opus #28)
Loudon, NH 2014 - Millville, NJ, Lightening 2019 (RIP)
New and improved: 1987 Honda Prelude Si (Opus #11) Pittsburgh, PA 2021 - ??
and finally won something, Class C Win: Loudon, NH 2022