Topic: Hunt for a good flaring tool
Looking for a good flaring tool to do steel fuel and brake lines. Will rarely be used so don't want to spend the $200 for the awesome k-tools one. Do I just rent from Autozone? Help...
The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Other Random Car Stuff → Hunt for a good flaring tool
Looking for a good flaring tool to do steel fuel and brake lines. Will rarely be used so don't want to spend the $200 for the awesome k-tools one. Do I just rent from Autozone? Help...
$60 from Amazon is my choice.... https://cal-vantools.com/products/maste … ring-set/. I've had good luck with it.
Mastercool makes the high $$ hydraulic one for anyone looking. Can be a little awkward to use under the car. But it can do other cool stuff like GM steel fuel line connectors.
-mike
Mastercool. It’s worth it.
Mastercool. It’s worth it.
There is no other tool to use after you have used one of these.
Everyone that I have borrowed my tool to has that opinion.
But again it's not cheap!
But it will be the last such tool you'll ever have to buy!
If you aren't going to spend the money for a good one then just rent one from the local parts store. A cheap one will likely get you through a few flares but will eventually develop a gouge on the anvil cone, threads bind or clamp will start deforming the tubing. Check the rental to make sure it doesn't have issues. Nothing is more frustrating than fighting a poor flare that won't capture or leaks. Cut it off, make a new one with the same tool and it does the same thing, really frustrating.
I really like the “on car” type dies like beaker posted like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum- … gJ4UPD_BwE
You gotta buy one for each size, and they’re slower, but I haven’t had a bad flare yet.
Also NiCop. Always use NiCop.
Also NiCop. Always use NiCop.
Nicop brake lines are well worth the money but never seen it for fuel.
I've only ever used the cheap ones that your local auto parts store sells.
Proper prep is key. If I take my time and make sure the line is cut square, the end is completely de-burred, the tool is clamped onto the line square and level, the die is lined up square, etc, the flares come out fine. If I rush and just throw the tool on however it falls, they come out like garbage. I've had the same tool for like 6 years now and it still makes good flares if I take the time to use it right.
Guildenstern wrote:Also NiCop. Always use NiCop.
Nicop brake lines are well worth the money but never seen it for fuel.
They make it in 3/8 so that's what I'm trying.
eastwood sells the same as mastercool.
It's the cat's ass.
Guildenstern wrote:Also NiCop. Always use NiCop.
Nicop brake lines are well worth the money but never seen it for fuel.
It’s marketed as brake/fuel/hydraulic/transfer line.
I've only ever used the cheap ones that your local auto parts store sells.
Proper prep is key. If I take my time and make sure the line is cut square, the end is completely de-burred, the tool is clamped onto the line square and level, the die is lined up square, etc, the flares come out fine. If I rush and just throw the tool on however it falls, they come out like garbage. I've had the same tool for like 6 years now and it still makes good flares if I take the time to use it right.
Don’t forget; lube it. For brakes use brake fluid, for fuel anything compatible like motoroil is fine.
I’ve seen too many terminally galled flare dies.
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