Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

running an auto trans is tricky...mainly because they aren't built for this type of use. They are built for mileage these days. We ran one (7004R) for a season. It seemed like it was always in the wrong gear. We did a bunch of mods including a manual valve body, turning up the line pressure and running some sort of tractor oil in it instead of trans fluid. We used the A/C condenser as the cooler, it held tons of fluid. The converter is important, you want one that doesn't slip...a "lock up" It depends on your engines "power band" what stall you get. I'd probably find a local circle track where people use auto's and see what they recommend.  Our trans never showed any signs of failure, but since we had a parts car (88 WS6 F-bird) we just took the T5 and pedals out of it. The stick is much better...

"get up and get your grandma outta here"

Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

I second the type F votes… cheap and less slip, available everywhere.    In order to keep our th350 alive we ran the lowest advertised stall converter we could find… I think 1800 rpm as i recall but still had to run two of the biggest plate style coolers on the market in series.  With that setup trans never went over 180 deg even in our old big caprice.   Stay away from the “tube and fin” coolers… fragile/easily punctured/brazing fails easily.  Plus the tube and fin dont work anywhere near as well as the plate style.   

Our sister team tried the same setup but put the fittings on the coolers facing down and their trans got hot right away as the air stays trapped in the cooler.   If you run a plate style just be sure fittings are facing up or to the side so it when the trans runs it fills itself and forces the air out.

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Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

If you want the trans to live use the a/c condenser for a cooler. That's what we did and we had zero issues with heat or slippage.

"get up and get your grandma outta here"

Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

Hook the lock-up power to your brake pedal so when you push the pedal, the lock-up shuts off.


Mic-drop......

2020 I.O.E. CT #36 The Rootes Of All Evil,1958 Sunbeam Rapier Convertible (YES 1958!!) & 2019 Judges Choice NJMP
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Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

-SDR- wrote:

Hook the lock-up power to your brake pedal so when you push the pedal, the lock-up shuts off.


Mic-drop......

are you referring to overdrive? We never used it. Best bet is to spend some money, modify your valve body and go with a full manual valve body.

"get up and get your grandma outta here"

Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

Mr.Yuck wrote:
-SDR- wrote:

Hook the lock-up power to your brake pedal so when you push the pedal, the lock-up shuts off.


Mic-drop......

are you referring to overdrive? We never used it. Best bet is to spend some money, modify your valve body and go with a full manual valve body.

Also depends which transmission you have and strategy. I believe 4L60E will lock up in 2nd and 3rd gear if its senses overheating. lock up in 4th regardless. Unlock anytime if brake applied.

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Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

Mr.Yuck wrote:
-SDR- wrote:

Hook the lock-up power to your brake pedal so when you push the pedal, the lock-up shuts off.


Mic-drop......

are you referring to overdrive? We never used it. Best bet is to spend some money, modify your valve body and go with a full manual valve body.

Overdrive is an extra gear set in the transmission.

Lock-up clutch is part of the torque converter (TC) and can seem a bit like overdrive when it engages
because it drops the engine RPM, like a gear change does, but only by about 300 RPM.
Basically, the lock-up in the TC makes a direct connection between the engine and the trans, eliminating
the fluid slippage found in a non-lock up converter or when it's unlocked. This then keeps the fluid cooler,
and fuel economy higher due to less/no slippage. However, it eliminates the torque multiplication of the fluid
drive in the converter.

Unlocking the converter when stepping on the brake pedal would keep the engine from stalling when coming to a stop.

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Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

Mr.Yuck wrote:

If you want the trans to live use the a/c condenser for a cooler. That's what we did and we had zero issues with heat or slippage.

Actually, that's what we started off using for a few races, and it really, really was not the right tool for the job.  Still don't love the 2 tall, wide, but somewhat thin plate & fin coolers we've swapped to, but, they work an awful lot better than the a/c condenser did.  Condensers on 'modern' cars just seem to be too restrictive for thick ATF to flow well.

Semi-Sentient Centenarians
1996 Buick Century - we upgraded our crappy GM sedan with parts from a crappy GM minivan.
"It's got a van motor, a 220 cubic inch plant, it's got van tires, van suspension, van shocks. It's a model with the catalytic converters ripped out so
     it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it a racecar or what?" - Blues Brothers, Probably

Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

-SDR- wrote:

Hook the lock-up power to your brake pedal so when you push the pedal, the lock-up shuts off.


Mic-drop......

I see where your head is at, but, having something constantly engage and disengage over and over again does not seem to be a smart move if you're aiming to move closer towards reliability (insert slow joke here, but, yes, we do actually use the brakes a good bit on track).  The car does actually do this on its own - if the TCC is locked, it will unlock it when brakes are applied.  I just don't think it really ever ends up locked on track (but I notice it when I drive the car around town). 

Unfortunately, I just don't think that the 'always engaged' torque converter lockup is going to be the way to go - they're just not a substantial piece, because they were really only made for use under cruising.  Hopefully a significantly lower stall torque converter and better shift programming will help on the heat front - assuming I can ever get anyone to rebuild the damned thing.

Semi-Sentient Centenarians
1996 Buick Century - we upgraded our crappy GM sedan with parts from a crappy GM minivan.
"It's got a van motor, a 220 cubic inch plant, it's got van tires, van suspension, van shocks. It's a model with the catalytic converters ripped out so
     it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it a racecar or what?" - Blues Brothers, Probably

Re: Fucking Torque Converters, How Do They Work?!

-SDR- wrote:

Hook the lock-up power to your brake pedal so when you push the pedal, the lock-up shuts off.


Mic-drop......


I guess I needed to remind everyone to use the manual switch that was mentioned, just have it hooked to the brake pedal as a fail-safe.


Picked up mic, dropped it again.....

2020 I.O.E. CT #36 The Rootes Of All Evil,1958 Sunbeam Rapier Convertible (YES 1958!!) & 2019 Judges Choice NJMP
2016 Thompson Speedway #36 Sabrina Duncan's Revenge, IOE Trophy, 5th Place 'C' Class 1977 Ford Pinto
2009 Stafford Motor Speedway #16 Team Teflon, 11th Place (overall) 1997 Saturn SL2