Good news is it's an '86 so CIS w/o Oxy Sensor. It is possible to make a w/c VW run the whole weekend your first time out (we did it with a 88 Scirocco 16V that was basically unknown save a couple of hours at track days).
Stuff to watch for -
0. Go on ebay and get the Bentley Golf/Jetta 1985-92 book. It's the factory manual, and the Germans do stuff a little bit differently.....
1. Fuel system electrics - all A2s have 2 fuel pumps an in tank (transfer) pump and a pressure pump on the passenger side unibody. These pumps are driven by a relay under the dash. If the car dies on you unexpectedly, turn the switch off and then back on without starting the car. If you don't hear the pumps running, tap the relay with a screwdriver handle. If it starts running, go spend $5 at your FLAPS for a new fuel pump relay. I'd have a spare in the car and instruct your drivers on how to change it, they fail without rhyme or reason. If your transfer pump is loud, do yourself a favor and don't run the tank dry as that will finish it off (in fact don't run the tank dry ever as these transfer pumps are fragile).
2. Crappy ignition switch electrics. All VWs prior to about 98 use the same electrical switch which dates back to the 1970 Super Beetle. If the tachometer stops working while the car is running, it's possible the switch is going bad, also the car will just stop running and not crank when this dies. Another $5 investment.
3. Fuel distributor/meter/filter - Change the filter, CIS absolutely doesn't like trash. Much like carburetor is French for do not touch, CIS is German for Nicht Gefingerpoken. If the car runs ok, don't mess with the mixture adjustment or metering plate, unless you know what you're doing, it's a recipe for disaster.
4. Vacuum leaks - Fix 'em, even the slightest leak will cause weird lean misfires and other stuff that will convince you the car isn't getting fuel (see #1).
5. Transaxle - The 020 box is reasonably stout (save the riveted diff shaft aka self machining syndrome, but I've never experienced this in any of my VWs firsthand), shift linkage on the A2s is light years above the A1 setup, but still a bit fragile, go over all of the ball ends and look for loose or cracked rod ends etc. Shifter stuff doesn't count towards the limit. If you've got room in the budget, these boxes like Redline MTL. Watch for fluid leaking around the diff flanges that connect to the inner CV joints.
6. Wheel bearings - Replace them, they're a safety item now, so pull both front spindles and have new bearings put in. Consider doing the rear bearings as well.
7. Engine basics - check timing belt, make sure temp and oil pressure senders are hooked up, watch for signs of overheating and leaks. In general the 1.8 8V is reasonably reliable, as long as they are maintained properly.
8. Cooling system - loop the line, don't block the heater outlet on the head, the water in the head does not circulate well without both the upper rad hose outlet and the heater outlet (at least on the 16V head) and will boil over within minutes. We learned this the hard way. You might consider gutting the thermostat (taking the block off plate out so that if it fails, water flow is not blocked, but the frame is in there to slow/restrict the flow as needed).
Hope this helps....
Unpimp Ze Lemon1988 VW Scirocco
2010 North Dallas Hooptie 18th, Yee Haw, It's Lemons Texas 61st