Junkyard oil cooler (Page 2 of 2)

I agree but your examples are kind of special cases...IMO Both turbo and transmission-in-sump are additional heat inputs into the oil, not the case with the Neon...oil is a poor heat transfer fluid compared to water; modern heavy-duty diesels do use it by spraying  the underside of the piston and they too have designed-in supplemental oil cooling. The Mini's sidewinder rad and push-through fan system were effective for my Mini's (I owned three all MK II's however) and I never had an overheating problem, although geography plays a part. At -10 or below, I couldn't get enough heat to keep me and the windshield warm without covering most of the rad with cardboard, and you could feel the viscosity of the Castrol 20W50 in the transmission until it warmed up. A larger oil capacity doesn't add cooling unless you have a larger surface area exposed to the airflow...a shallow pan with a lower oil capacity would cool as well once the system equilibrates....heat flow in = heat flow out or else boom regardless.....Jag designing engines that require the oil to assist the cooling system speaks for itself reliability-wise. There's very little surface area in an oil cooler compared to a rad anyway....you can increase the area more easily through the cooling system with bigger rads/cores. Agree re. air-cooled engines, esp. bikes....I seized my CB450SC through a low oil level...bruised a kidney with the right handlebar, which may account for my skepticism! But oil-assisted air cooling is not only a special case, it sure isn't the way to reliable horsepower. Porsche wouldn't add the weight of a cooling system if they could have done it with a big oil cooler. Unless it's really marginal, I'd consider synthetic oil, a homespun windage tray and pan baffles/kickouts as more likely to make the engine more reliable through oiling. Can't hurt, however.

One other detail, particularly on a recent tight clearance motor, is to run a decent oil filter that can handle the full flow of the oil pump at race speeds.

Many cars today flow large amounts of oil yet the aftermarket cheap filters begin to bypass at around 3GPM.  If you are bypassing you are not filtering the oil.  Crap in the bearings eats parts.

Also, many cheaper filters only are 90%+ effective for particles above 25 microns.  A 0.001" clearance is 25 microns.   At 90% the filter allows 1 in 10 particles that big to get into your bearings and likely lets even bigger ones through.  And that's if it isn't bypassing...

Does the 3.0L Duratec motor have similar oil starvation problems that the 2.5L in the Contour did?

The SHOstang shouldn't need any help. There's all kinds of baffling in that pan. Unless the north-south orientation causes trouble.

Yeah, but it works so well for killing wasps.